Creating a quilt requires much time and effort. Meant to led tunnel light wholesale be cherished and enjoyed, quilts can end up damaged by improper use, cleaning, storage and display. Whether created for every day use or as heirlooms, proper care will ensure that they last to bring the pleasure intended.
Use
When planning a quilt consider the intended use. What fabrics are used, the type of quilting done, etc. - are dependent on the intended use of the quilt.
So decide if the quilt will be used as an everyday quilt on a bed or is it meant to be an heirloom and thus displayed but not used.
Keep in mind that a quilt for a cot, child or lap quilt definitely needs to be of a fabric that is durable and washable, as it will require more frequent laundering.
Cleaning
Baby and lap quilts will get soiled and need to be washed often. It is important that a mild soap is used and that the quilt is rinsed well. Quilt shops carry products specially designed for quilts. "Quilt Wash" is one such product. All commercial detergents are much too harsh and will strip colour from quilt fabrics. A great product for stains, yellowing or other stubborn marks is "Restoration".
Laundering a quilt may not be necessary. Many will only require having the dust removed. The best way to remove dust from a sturdy quilt is to place a nylon stocking, over the nozzle of a vacuum and then gently vacuum the quilt--preferably on both sides. Avoid surface abrasion.
Airing a quilt can also remove odours and dust. There is no need to beat the quilt and keep in mind that sunlight is bad for your quilt.
Dry cleaning a quilt is not recommended. It is not a gentle method as large tumble machines are used and harsh chemicals are applied, which can be quite damaging.
Storage
Light and moisture are a quilts worst enemies. Direct sunlight will not only fade the newest and highest quality fabric in no time at all, but it also will cause the fibers to weaken. Moisture can cause mildew to form, which can be not only difficult to remove, but impossible.
Many people use cardboard boxes and plastic bags with the intention of protecting their precious quilts. Both of these gather moisture, causing stains and encouraging mildew and musty smells. They are bad choices for storage. The big plastic storage boxes are not any better, as they do not have ventilation.
A closet shelf is a much better choice. Do not use open shelving as this exposes the quilt to light and you will end up with fading along the folds. The storage area should be clean, cool, dry, dark, and as free as possible from drastic changes in temperature and humidity. If you have shelf space, it is a good idea to fold the length of the quilt and roll, to eliminate creases. The next time, fold a different way before rolling.
It is also essential that the quilt is clean and dust free before put it away. Stains can attract insects while dust particles actually create abrasion, causing wear.
Avoid storing near an outside wall where condensation will occur particularly in winter. Be aware that smoke for cigarettes and fireplaces can seek out stored textiles leaving an ugly surprise. One of the best places to store a quilt is on a bed. Do you have a guest room? Pile your quilts on the unused bed, in layers, and then top with a cotton sheet to block the light.
No matter where you choose to store your quilts, it is important to inspect them every two to three months. Take them out to air them for a few hours and examine, front and back. It is a good idea to clean the storage area at this time before putting the quilts back.
Display
Both sunlight and artificial light will cause fading. Never display a quilt where direct sunlight will reach it. If you have fluorescent lighting, it is wise to cover the tubes with a UV shield.
When hanging a quilt, use a method that will distribute the weight over the entire width of the quilt. Sew a four inch wide tube or sleeve of fabric along the top edge on the back of the quilt and stitch through all layers of the quilt every inch or so. Do not use nails, pins or staples to hang a quilt. These can tear through fabrics, corrode and cause staining and cause distortion of heavier quilts.
Cherish your quilts and they will reward you with years of enjoyment.
When it comes to simple basic Still-Life Tabletop Photography, as far as the novice 'wanna-be-photographer' is concerned there is often a mental block, when really it's quite simple, so much so that if you start to do led street light wholesale it professionally, after a few years the trick is to stay awake.
I asked UK photographer Phil Selfe why he sold his very successful studios a few years back and he answered, "I just got bored Rog".
I remember when he was my assistant back in the seventies, I would set up the first still-life shot, then say to him, "Shoot off the rest Phil" and go out for the rest of the day.
Of course not all still-life is so mundane and in fact some still-life shots are very exacting, requiring careful planning, construction of the set and attention to lighting details, which would include running test shots to acquire the effect that was needed. Sometimes this could take a day or two to successfully complete.
If you were shooting room sets as I use to do some time back, this would require a lot more work and would involve the use of many assistants, carpenters for set building and in many cases taking days to successfully complete. You would also need some serious studio space to accomplish this type of specialist work, as I use to have.
But as UK comedian Ronnie Corbett would say "I digress", lets get back to the basics of still-life tabletop photography.
For lighting you will need an attachment to your studio flash unit called a 'Soft Box'. This is as it sounds, a box constructed in fabric, which is reflective on the inside, with a diffuse panel at the front, providing a directional soft defused light to illuminate the subject. An umbrella attachment is not sutible for this work as the spread of light is to wide.
If you don't have a studio flash unit you can buy a soft box that will attach to a hammer head flash gun. If you have a second flash head you can put this to good use by simply bouncing it off the ceiling, to help fill any shadow area.
What you will need for Still-Life Tabletop Photography.:
1. Medium Format Camera and a 'macro' lens (close focusing). Better still a 5x4inch. View camera, which has tilt and swing front and rear panels for ease of focusing.
Did you know that only one in fifteen NEW cameras sold to day, are film cameras, this means there are great bargains to be had in the use film camera market, take advantage of that right now.
2. Soft Box Attachment.
3. Tripod, a good solid one.
4. Lighting Stands, you will need two or three.
5. White Card as reflectors or as a background, size 1mtr.x70cm. from your art shop, get three.
6. Background. muslin or material, off white or neutral in color.
7. Low table about 2ftx2ft. 18 inches high.
8. Light Meter for flash exposures.
What to do:
Set up your soft box at an angle of 45 degrees to the left or right of camera and slightly to the back of the set. This should be for small still-life objects and the light should be no more than a meter away from the subject, so you are able to stop down, (set the lens aperture), to at least f22, to get as much depth-of-field as possible so the image will be in sharp focus. If you have a second flash head, use it bounced off the ceiling to help to fill any shadow area.
Fix your reflector, (white card), the opposite side to the flash and an additional reflector the other side underneath the soft box.
Use a good lens hood, such as a bellows lens hood, to keep the light from the soft box hitting the lens. It's also good practice to fix a small piece of black card, suspended over the lens of the camera to prevent any light causing flare from the lens, taking care that the black card doesn't clip the picture area, or effect you meter reading.
Make test exposures to find out the best result and after some experimentation, you will find the results that you want. It's also good to "bracket" your exposures, which means to make three exposures, one at half a stop, (f.stop number), above the reading and one at half a stop below, choosing the best density of the three exposures made. Most pro photographers, even after a tests, use this as standard practice. Film is cheap and digital is nothing.
Now if you think that there is some other 'magic' formula that the pros use to shoot simple still life, your WRONG. This is the most used pro photo still-life set up, but of course there many exceptions to the rule and not all still life work is table top.
Final comment: The best way to become an accomplished photographer in still-life or other work, is go work for one as an assistant. It's the way most good pro photographers make it.
Happy shooting.
Acclaimed architect Bruno Taut said, ?If we want our culture to rise to a higher level, we are obligated for better or for led canopy light manufacturers worse, to change our architecture. And this only becomes possible if we take away the closed character from the rooms in which we live. We can only do that by introducing glass architecture, which lets in the light of the sun, the moon, and the stars?.
A New Architectural Era Built in Hyde Park, London to house the Great Exhibition in 1851 the Crystal Palace is commonly considered as a significant turning point in architectural history. This magnificent structure built from steel and glass paved the way for further exploration of glass as an architectural element. The glass sail of the new Milan trade fair and Louvre pyramid are other stunning example of the use of glass as a structural as well as a design element. Other examples of glass architecture include the London Bridge, Agbar and Federazija Towers as well as the Tokyo International Forum.
While the use of glass in construction was previously quite limited to grand designs and office buildings it is starting to become a core structural and design element in many homes. Glass facilitates natural light and opens up rooms allowing smaller spaces to look bigger as well as facilitating a natural indoor/outdoor flow which often enhances the tranquillity as well as the value of your home. Glass is also relatively inexpensive and fully recyclable, an important consideration in the current era of heightened environmental consciousness. Glass use in construction has increased dramatically due to the rapid changes in glass production and technology. Previously glass was thought to be quite a fragile building material and many steered away from it because of this. Modern glass, however, is not only spectacular to look through but it is safer, stronger and energy efficient.
Glass in the home In the past glass was mainly utilized for windows to allow some air and light in to rooms. Today glass is utilized in the construction of several elements of exterior and interior architecture. Exterior glass architecture includes facades, display windows? skylights, skywalks, entrances, revolving doors, canopies, winter gardens and conservatories. All of which allow homes to be bathed in natural sunlight with gorgeous outdoor views. Interior glass architecture can be used for staircases, elevated walkways and even as traditional walls. There are some houses in which all of the walls are actually glass. Such high quantities of glass previously compromised other aspects such as the heating and cooling requirements. Often glass architecture would incur high heating costs in winter and cooling costs in summer. Fortunately such great progress has been made in the glass industry that we now have access a variety of different kinds of glass each with fantastic benefits. One such example is glass with spectrally-selective qualities, which allows light to stream into the house without being harmful or degenerative to occupants and their belongings.
Caring for your Glass To keep your glass looking great and streak free you will need to ensure that it is cleaned often. Try a few different cleaning solutions before you decide which one to use, options vary from store bought to home made solutions. Many use products such as ammonia, vinegar, borax, alcohol or Epsom salts to clean glass. An important point to remember is that when using your own solutions never combine an acid and an alkaline, for example vinegar and ammonia, as they neutralise on another. After washing use a dry cotton towel rather than paper towels or newspaper as they tend to disintegrate and leave deposits on your glass. For a great shine a dry blackboard eraser can be used.
To keep frost from accumulating on exterior windows during the winter, add two cups of antifreeze or rubbing alcohol to each gallon of wash water. For deposits of paint, resin or glue wet the surface and then scrape them off using a razor blade scraper. Take care to scrape in one direction only in order to avoid scratching the surface.
Another option, and a fantastic one at that, is the breakthrough technology that has brought us self-cleaning glass. An ultra-thin coating is applied to the glass during the manufacturing process; this coating has two highly beneficial effects on the glass. First organic residue on the glass broken down by the ultraviolet wavelengths in sunlight then when it rains the dirt is washed off. As the coating is hydrophilic when rain hits the glass, it doesn't form droplets and in turn eradicates streaking. Rain water flows down the glass in a sheet and washes the dirt away. If you don't have time to wait for the rain a simple garden hose will be just as effective. Self-cleaning glass is making the lives of homeowners far easier and is giving home owners absolutely no reason to hesitate to use of glass in the construction of their homes. What could be better than bright, open rooms with excellent outdoor views facilitated by huge sheets of glass, without having to spend your days cleaning them?
Modern day architectural trends have elevated the way we think about the use of glass in our own homes. It is no longer simply a material for windows and the occasional sliding door; it is a design component in its own right.
With each passing day glass becomes a more important element in architecture not only in grand public structures but also in the lives and homes of families across the world. The beauty of glass lies in its simplicity, it enables us to be enveloped by nature while living comfortably in doors.
On Lake Michigan, at the end of led stadium light manufacturers the Stonington Peninsula, there's a stretch of empty beach. Part of the Hiawatha National Forest, it's framed on either side by private property, with no easy access. To walk on the beach, however, is legal. Past the last cabin, the public land starts, and goes for six or seven miles. This is where I would test my ultralight backpacking skills and gear.
I hiked a few miles the first day and explored the woods, where I ate wild blueberries for an hour. Then I set up camp behind a small ridge on the beach. I collected dry grass along the edge of the forest, which made a nice mattress. I pitched my backpacking tarp fairly high, so the breeze would keep out the mosquitos. When camp was set, I went for a swim.
This area has many crayfish, which look and taste just like miniature lobsters. After swimming I caught a dozen under the rocks in shallow water, and carried them back to camp in a whipped-cream container I found. You never know what will wash up on a beach.
I boiled them with some cattail hearts and evening primrose roots, in my cheap three ounce pan. It made a good meal with the crackers I brought. (You remove the meat from the tail of the crayfish, after cooking.)
It was summer, so I hadn't brought a sleeping bag. At seventeen ounces, my bag wouldn't have added much to my packweight of eight pounds. I just wanted to try using a nylon sleeping bag liner I had recently sewn (5 ounces). I wore my clothes to bed, including a hat I made from the sleeve of an old thermal shirt (1 ounce). I slept well, and ate granola bars for breakfast.
Water was all around, so I only had a 16-ounce plastic pop bottle (1 ounce) and a few iodine tablets for purification. I took a good drink before I packed up.
I found fresh bear tracks on the beach. The bear had walked within 60 yards of where I slept. I had a freon horn (2 ounces) that I'd bought after reading that people have used it's high-decible shriek to scare off bears. I pulled it out. I followed the tracks for an hour, but only because I was going in that direction.
I had two old cabins to explore, another patch of berries I knew about, and a beach full things to check out. The strangest item that regularly washes up is light bulbs. I take them home to use them. After years of finding these, a sailor finally told me that they throw them off the ships to shoot at them in the water. I was finding the ones they missed.
The next day I headed back. The rain I expected never came, so I didn't get to test my garbage bag rainsuit (2 ounces), but I had used a similar one with success before. Overall, I was happy with my ultralight backpacking "test." Of course, you can get by with fragile clothing and gear when you're hiking an open beach. Oh, and I never did see the bear.
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